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THE SEMI-FINAL
TEAR DOWN THIS WALL MR LIDL-WAYNE!

Welcome to the semi-final task of LidlTerm S3!

Fierce.Needles, Snawl, Uhu, Cinthia & Razzing - I am so thrilled to see you as semi-finalists. I wish you all good luck - remember everything you've learned in the critiques, keep your head cool and have fun with this semi-final task. Only 3 of you will make it to the grand final, so give it your all for this one.

The Berlin wall ideologically as well as physically divided Berlin between 1961 to 1989. When the wall was torn down in 1989 it became a symbol for a new, free Germany and a greater Europe. It meant that some people were granted the freedom that they had a right to - one of my favorite designers Uli Herzner left the gray and rough Eastern Germany after the wall fell and she pursued her dream in fashion, she now owns and runs a tropical clothing brand.

For this semi-final task, the designers were asked to create a two piece mini-collection inspired by the rise and fall of the Berlin wall. One look had to representn the restrictedness and/or the roughness of the wall, while the other had to represent breaking free or gaining freedom. Each designer were only given the Tim Gunn session on one of the two looks, while Razzing who won the previous challenge were rewarded with an extensive Tim Gunn session.

Let's watch the semi-finalists battle it out!

 


uhu


First look (left)

You are probably bored to tears by hearing this so many times but it bares repeating: you never bore me with your designs. This lime green composition I'd say is avant garde and it is a very unexpected yet fresh take on the whole Berlin wall task. The different textures against each other are great and it is so bizarre that your model has no face - perhaps that is a message in itself in relation to the opression that was the Berlin wall? I struggle with the dress underneath, it's alright but it does nothing for me. Even a basic, black dress underneath would've looked cool. I'm also not so sure about the mauve shoes - they make the design look sweeter than what is good for it. All season long you have been great at creating new things: let them speak for themselves sometimes, tone it down a little and let the background aspects be background aspects, ya know?

Second look (right)

It is strange how simple it is and yet how unique it is as well. There's a happiness to this look, a flow and an ease - you portray the feeling of breaking free in a way that isn't too literal but also not too complicated. It's nice to see you a bit scaled back this way (don't get me wrong, I love it when you turn up the volume to 100). The cherry tattoo is a super tricky item to use as we usually search for ways to hide the green stem, instead you featured it. Love the orange earring. What else can I say? There's an attitude to it that is hard to put into words.

 


SNAWL


First look (left)

I honestly wasn't so sure how to feel about this look, now that I'm looking at it in relation to the runway set, I think it looks pretty damn great. There's something funny and yet fantastic about you embracing this Eurocentric task by taking an Italian football shirt and then manipulating it into a German-themed task. The shirt is one of my favorite things I've seen this season, it just has that je ne sais quoi  to it. In order to portray drama, the cape was a good choice. For both looks, I adore the subtle, dark purple shoes - that is something I love about you, you always think about the choice of shoes as much as you think about the rest of the outfit, the shoes are never rushed or just slapped on. When I look at the top, I'm reminded of light breaking through barriers - marvelous work Brad. The only thing I'm having trouble connecting with is the face/the mask. I appreciate that you took a risk and that you tried to show something new but it just looks overdesigned to me. 

Second look (right)

So unexpected and so fresh. I did not expect to see a cute yet edgy mini-dress from you, I could see Lindsay Lohan wearing this while telling everyone that yes, this is her song Xanax that the DJ is playing. I love the subtle and slightly scary choker and just the whole disintegrated feeling of the look. In fashion, it is very difficult to make something that looks both simple and yet unique - you pulled it off. I love that you decided to portray rememberance, the obvious route would've been to design something that would be very Lorde - Solar Power. When I look at your design I get this idea of an exhausted people, but also a people that are moving on. Besides the deeper meaning, it's all very chic and I could see this in Italian Vogue.

 


Razzing


First look (left)

I was a bit afraid you would do this. Most of this season I’ve tried to steer you away from a certain drag/dominatrix related path. Not that there is anything wrong with such fashion, it’s just that you are at your very best when you step outside of your comfort zone and when you have an editorial approach. Last week is the perfect example of you mixing your love for drama and flair with a more fashion-forward and editorial point of view. This is very 80’s and not in a way trendy or a fresh way, I have never seen an outfit that is more ”Modern Talking - Cheri Cheri Lady” than this. I really do get the military influences but the color palette is just really off to me - it doesn’t make music, it just makes noise. The skirt on the other hand is gorgeous and I enjoy the contrasts of the flowy fabric with the very stiff military jacket. There is something slightly evil about all of it which I think shows you did manage to relate to the Berlin wall task in a decent way.

Second look (right)

I will always have respect and admiration for people who dare to put their art out and have it judged - it’s not easy to present something you love and have it torn down but it builds character and makes you a greater artist. This is really bad, Peter. It looks like a bus seat print (click for reference). To continue what I was talking about in my critiques for your first look, it has all been about finding the balance with you this season and around task 5 you found it - where the hell is the balance in this? If you’re going to serve chaos it has to make sense somehow, if you’re going to present a mess it has to be a beautiful mess. I will give you credit for one thing and that is that you’re presenting a design that is at least interesting and original - those are two great and important aspects when you’re a designer. It sadly just doesn’t look good.  This would’ve been a really cool rocker dress had it been styled differently and not had the color palette of a toy.

 


fierce.needles


First look (left)

At first I had a hard time connecting the shimmery fabrics with the Berlin wall, but then my perspective on it changed. This entire look is a mixture of beauty and pain, and even in the darkest of times the stars shine at night. The silhouette is really stunning: the model is wearing both big, flowy parts as well as more stiff and structured parts. This looks like a very cold design (without using any white or blue!) and it's always difficult to utilize that hat without having it look cliché - you designed a gown that makes the hat look cool and editorial even. The gray plant accessory is interesting: it portrays concrete and although we are looking at what is originally meant to be leaves, it makes me think of the unability for things to blossom and grow. A beautiful and wistful design of yours - please never lose your editing eye and this perfect balance you've had in every single look this season.


Second look (right)

I'm in love with this. I like that it is mostly monochromatic, that it looks like dirty sand and that it mixes military elements with an almost hippie/flower power message. It feels like an outfit that is about remembering the past and yet celebrating the bright future ahead: there is sorrow to it but also optimism. That skirt is near impossible to make look good when you have it in a single color only but you found a way to make it chic. When I look at this outfit I am reminded of why I love you as a designer: you never overdo it or take it too far and yet you always have something new to say or show, and you don’t need to pull any crazy stunts to stand out. You have an absolutely impeccable aesthetic and there is always an ease and a coolness to your designs: you know how to portray and sell a certain vibe which is something money can’t buy and it’s also something that decides whether you will make it or break it in the world of fashion. Your dress is gorgeous and you should be proud, Jared.


verdict

Cinthia - you failed to submit on time. In fact, you hadn't even started designing a single thing before deadline. I know how passionate and invested you have been in this season so it pains me to see you lose like this. I know you failed to submit because you've been working hard and I have so much respect and admiration for your work ethic. You asked if I could extend the deadline, sadly, I don't believe I would do you any favours by giving you 14 days to present 5 looks in the finale when it was a struggle for you to present 2 looks in 9 days. You will always be the winner of LidlTerm S1 and a winner in general, you went on an artistic journey with yourself this season and you came out on the other end a more confident and seasoned designer. You have given me so many reasons to smile throughout the years and never forget how much we all cherish you.

Fierce.Needles - congratulations, you are the winner of the semi-final task. It is probably the biggest task one can win on LidlTerm. All season long you have intrigued me and impressed me - you've also had your struggles but you pushed through and I am beyond proud to see you as a finalist. Your mini-collection has something captivating about it and it is my clear favorite this week. I will beg you to do one thing: don't lose yourself in the finale, stay true and authentic to the brilliant designer and person that you are, Jared. I wish you good luck.

Snawl - a fantastic mini-collection, thank you for opening my eyes further with it. You have my second favorite collection this week, which makes you a finalist. You've competed in several longterms, which is why I find it so intriguing to see you still finding new sides of yourself as a designer. If you look at the Designerology page, it is clear that you've grown even further. I am very excited to see another collection from you, good luck Brad.

Uhu - if I ever become rich, I might just hire you to create art for me all day long, it is impossible for you to bore me. Your mini-collection had some flaws but as a whole it was very enjoyable and refreshing. I am so happy to tell you that you are a finalist this season. I have never seen anyone find such a calm, peaceful confidence as a designer like I have seen you do this season and it is so amazing to see. So please, when you design your five piece collection - just be you, have fun with it, trust your gut and follow your heart - I don't care that it sounds cliché because I believe it.

Razzing - I'm terribly sad that I must announce you as placing 4th this season. Once again you have taken us on a ride with your designs and each week you have made your competitors sweat. This mini-collection doesn't represent your best work, but it also doesn't define you - what defines you as a designer is the work that you've put out that have pushed the envelope in ways I didn't think I'd see in a longterm. You're a one of a kind, Peter. I can't wait to see the longterm you're going to host with LC22, I know the two of you will be brilliant at it. Thank you so much for everything.



 

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